Arrivederci, Roma!

What a fabulous city! I have had a wonderful time in Rome, and as I move on to my next destination, I wanted to say Grazie and Ciao to this multi-faceted metropolis.

Because there isn’t just one Rome! There is enough in Rome for each visitor to take away a truly individual impression, and not just of the artifacts of history, which are everywhere.

History is everywhere in Roma! As are the many visitors with whom you get to share it.

I have a long relationship with Rome — I first came here in the summer of 1982 with two friends. I was so swept away by how glorious it was that I said goodbye to my friends as they headed off for a short whistle-stop tour of European cities, and then I stayed on solo in Rome for almost another 2 weeks. Wine under the stars, spaghetti con le vongole, opera arias wafting through the air — why would anyone ever leave? I now remember a Rome that partly does not exist anymore, the Rome I first wandered in 42 years ago, as a teen in awe of all the grandeur and unique beauty. It has always been strangely familiar here as I have returned to Rome through the years.

There is such impressive architecture everywhere, and the most beautiful views. You can just wander around and be stunned by it all.

These are both streets in Rome, down the narrow cobblestone alley, and also crossing under the ancient, jasmine-scented archway:

Rome has such great trees.

Rome is also the home of my all-time favorite Seagull.

This Seagull has claimed a high point on this apartment building, and he complains at high volume when other birds come too close. Some evenings the Hooded Crows swing by to try to knock him off his perch, and he just stands his ground, loudly.

It is his Garbatella apartment building.

Apartment buildings in Rome look pretty good in general:

And when in Rome you can go grocery shopping at the grooviest supermarket building ever:

That is pretty groovy.

Rome is where its residents of all ages fill the streets to march against Facism and Neofascism, because they care! This was the parade in Rome that went past my balcony on April 25th, which I went right out and joined, for Liberation Day or Festa della Liberazione. This day commemorates the victory of the Italian resistance movement during WWII, successfully fighting against the Nazis and the puppet government they had set up in Italy. The event also remembers the many fallen who stood for freedom.

The spirit of political activism resides in the hearts of many Romans, young and old. They will show up for marches, lectures, and cultural events, to show support and to learn!

It is impossible not to admire the dedication of those who embody this spirit. They are not ambivalent about events and causes — they care! And they will not hesitate to wave their hand vigorously in the air as they make their strongest point during a mealtime conversation, because their convictions matter, even if they knock over their own wine glass in doing so! And yours! Just like my Roman friend, Carlo, who you can find mopping up wine during meals, or even piloting the giant bicycle-powered watermelon float during the Festa della Liberazione parade through the streets of Rome.

Hang on! This time it actually IS Carlo! And he didn’t knock over a single person the entire time he was pedaling in the parade.

So, all over Rome you will find interesting street names. I came across this one accidentally, while on a bike trek through some new neighborhoods to visit a highly recommended bike shop called Cicli Pigneto (Via Adriano Balbi 2 a/b, 00176 Roma. www.ciclipigneto.it.)

The Cicli Pigneto bike shop in Roma. Have I gone off on a bike tangent again?

Cicli Pigneto is a great bike shop, for parts, repairs, tune-ups, new bikes, rental bikes, used bikes, bike advice, positive bike vibes, and the most friendly and charming bike mechanics.

Anyway, this street name had a familiar ring to it:

Even though that street corner itself is covered in graffiti. Actually, rather a lot of Rome is covered in graffiti.

It is at first incomprehensible, to see paint sprayed across a place of such grandeur. But I have had a lot of time to ponder the prevalent graffiti (art? decoration? desecration?) all over Rome. It is protest, complaint, paeans to lovers, slander of exes, political information, cartoonish images, facts, slogans, and nonsense.

Eventually I decided that you have to think of all this graffiti as Romans writing love letters to their city, as a way they say that they are not indifferent at all — they care! I read somewhere that Romans have an incredibly powerful relationship with their city, one that prompts them to critique the place constantly without mercy, while at the same time they will instantly admonish anyone else who dares to criticize it.

To me, all the paint adds another level entirely to the city, a textual one.

Well, I would say that, wouldn’t I, being an English Professor and all. To us, the entire world is a text.

So my stay in Rome ends, and the next chapter of this sabbatical begins. I have more writing to do! It is time to move on.

Me departing the Artisa Writers’ Retreat, the first ever to arrive and depart on a bicycle, Celeste of Artisa, who took these pictures, told me.

Now I am wondering if one could perhaps rent a charming cottage in a picturesque village in England. What would be the most picturesque village one could choose? It would have to be extremely picturesque, perhaps in picturesque North Yorkshire, with streams, flowers, meadows, an idyllic village green, a field of sheep over yonder, a cozy pub, winding lanes, and charming cottages….

Do stay tuned, old chums.